From The Garage To The Road – Getting Your Classic Car Ready For Spring

February 16th, 2012 Comments off

Spring has arrived and it has quite possibly been six months since your classic car has been started. Hopefully before the snow hit last year you took proper steps to secure your vehicle to get it ready for its winter slumber. But even with proper preparation, there are important steps necessary to check your vehicle over before you turn the key for that first drive of the spring.

VISUAL INSPECTION

Start with a visual inspection of the entire vehicle.

Begin with the body, work your way around and get under the vehicle to look for leaks or any areas a critter may have nested. You can usually find nest particles that have dropped down on the floor or on top of engine. If you are lucky, no critters have nested. If they have, try to use a shop vac to suck out the debris instead of using your bare hands. Throughout the inspection you have probably noticed all of the dust and grime that has built up and you may feel inclined to wipe a few spots while you are overlooking the car. Stop right there. Do not do this until you can wash the car properly so as not to scratch or dull the finish.

UNDER THE HOOD

Before attaching the battery, test it and/or give it a charge. While it is charging you can check belts, hoses and wiring to make sure everything looks good. Pump the brake pedal a few times to make sure it has a good pedal and no leaks. Change your oil and filter; moisture has had time to gather and pool inside the block. The same can be said about all lubricants and fluids, but use your discretion; the longer the vehicle has been sitting the more crucial this becomes. Remove the spark plugs and check for moisture and measure the gap. While the plugs are out you may choose to add a small amount of oil to the cylinder walls to lessen damage on initial start. With oil in the motor, turn the vehicle over by hand to get the lubrication process started. Disconnect the “+” coil wire and attach the battery. I would recommend turning the key to the run position and inspect the cars wiring. Look, feel and smell for shorts. Once the wiring appears to be o.k. go ahead and crank the engine over and check your fluid levels again. With the plugs out it will turn easily and hopefully clear out any junk in the combustion chamber. Check your fuel lines, carburetor, clutch and shifter for proper movement and operation.

BRAKES AND SUSPENSION

With the weight of the wheels, wiggle the tires back and forth and up and down. This will make sure that the wheel bearings and suspension links are ready to roll. Remove the tires and check the brakes for rust, leaks, frayed hoses and adjustment. A wire wheel can be used on rotors and drums to remove rust without damage. With correct air pressure in the tires, torque the lug nuts back and roll the car out a few feet. This will assure everything is free and ready to go.

INITIAL START UP

Go easy on the cranking and do not be worried if the engine does not fire up right away. Never use starting fluid to help speed this process (it can crack your heads). If you have a mechanical fuel pump, it may take a few cranks to build pressure. It may be necessary to squirt a small amount of fresh gas in the carburetor and then try starting it (never squirt while cranking or running. This will start a fire). When the car starts, hold the throttle around 2200rpm to insure proper lubrication. This should be done for about 60 seconds. Let the car idle down and shut off and take another general inspection for any surprises that may have slipped past or occurred while running. If no problems exist, restart the car following the previous procedure. Run all the controls, lights and accessories and move the car back and forth a couple of times in the driveway. Once the temp gets close to operating range you are ready for a short trip around the block.

No one knows your car better than you, so pay attention on the first drive and take it easy. After a couple of laps around the block, shut the car down and recheck everything again. Most failures will occur in these first few moments, so stay close to home. If everything is humming along great, put about 40 miles on the odometer (half city/ half highway) and you should be good to go. I perform this operation on ten different vehicles every spring, and I have yet to be disappointed by the outcome. They sometimes need some work before I leave the shop, but I have not been stranded on the side of the road after following these steps.

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Requirements That Your Car Must Meet to Be Used For the Driving Test

February 16th, 2012 Comments off

The time for the trial has finally come. After having grasped what you need to do with driving lessons, you’re now facing the test that’s necessary to obtain your driver’s license. This involves a lot of preparation, most of which is psychological. You’ll want to ensure that you feel physically and mentally ready for making good on being judged, and that you remember to adhere to the principles of proper road conduct.

There is more to this than just that, though. The other part involved is your vehicle of choice. In a good driving school, you’ll be instructed on what you must do to be ready for the driver’s test. They’ll cover more than just driving lessons – they’ll tell you what a car needs to have to meet the requirements.

If you’re bringing your own vehicle to the test for a driver’s license, be certain that it meets certain standards. The first and most important is that it has valid inspection stickers. This is something almost every driving department will check, and if you have a car that is out-of-date inspection-wise, then they can refuse you the test. Even if they don’t do this, it’s generally safer to assume they will. Also, keeping your inspections updated means that you’ll have covered several other aspects involved in determining your vehicle eligibility.

The next thing to confirm is the functionality of your car horn. It may seem useless to you in most cases, but this is still a tool that has a proper purpose for the right time, and a test judge will see to it to ensure your horn is functional. If you don’t have a working horn, you can expect your car to be refused the test, unfortunately.

Tire treads are usually checked as well for grip and pressure. Make sure you stop at a petrol station before going to the test to make sure all 4 tires are in good condition and pressurized.

Without mirrors, lights, or signals, you simply will not qualify at all. The other things may not always be looked at, but these three elements will never be overlooked. That’s guaranteed. A severely damaged or missing mirror will count towards disqualification – there’s just no safety present in having blind spots, and the lack of a functional mirror adds to them. No test judge will allow you to drive with a car lacking the basic elements of providing vision, and for obvious reasons. Burnt lights may not seem as important, considering that you’ll be doing your testing during the day. However, they represent visibility for other divers. This is especially true for signals. While you may have the rare fortune of not having your headlights examined, the signals will always be checked because every test requires that you use them accordingly. Fortunately, all of these things are cheap, so getting them replaced is a fairly simple and affordable process.

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Tips to Changing Your Car’s Oil

January 21st, 2012 Comments off

If you are an automobile owner, it is important to ensure that you know how to change your oil. Oil is the substance that provides lubrication to the various parts and components of your automobile’s engine. Over the course of time, the oil in your vehicle experiences a general type of breakdown as a result of operating in conditions that have a relatively high temperature. If the oil is not changed on a regular basis, it will eventually fail to lubricate parts and components of the engine effectively. Additionally, the additives that are contained in the oil begin to fail in neutralizing the numerous acids contained within the engine. When oil becomes old and overworked, substances such as water and byproducts of the internal combustion may begin corroding various parts of the engine.

Tools Required When Changing Oil

There are various types of tools and accessories that are required when changing your own oil. First, you will want to have a socket set that contains a 3/8 drive. It is also appropriate to have a wrench set that is considered to be a “combination” unit. These typically contain a closed end, opened end, and a metric wrench. You also should have a brand new oil filter as well as a wrench that is designed to remove and attach the oil filter. You should also ensure that you have a large container that can be used to “catch” the oil that is removed from the vehicle and storage containers to place the oil in afterwards as it is considered illegal to dispose of this substance in any manner.

You should pick out and purchase the oil that will be used to refill the engine once you have removed the old oil. Typically, four to five quarts is appropriate for this task. You should pay special attention to whether your engine has a lot of miles on it, if you operate the vehicle at high performance, and the climate that you live in. There are many name brand oils that have been tested and deemed appropriate for certain types of vehicles, as well as factors regarding those vehicles – such as high performance, high mileage, and there are various weights. Examples of appropriate oils include “Valvoline”, “Mobil”, and “Pennzoil”.

The Steps for Changing Your Oil

1. When learning how to change your oil, it is important to know that if the engine is warm, the oil will actually drain from the engine more quickly. Of course, if you elect to drive your car for a bit in order to get it warm, you must be very careful when working with the parts underneath the vehicle.

2. You should park the vehicle on ramps that can be purchased from a local or online auto accessories retailer. This will allow you more room to move comfortably underneath the vehicle. If you elect to drive up on ramps, be absolutely certain to place large cement blocks or another type of barrier that will prevent movement of the wheels.

3. Now, you will need to slide underneath the car and locate the drain plug on the oil pan. This is basically just a large nut structure with a flimsy looking washer holding it on. Once located, experiment with the sockets that you have until you find a match. Once located, turn counter clockwise to remove it.

4. Now, once this is loosened, get some old newspaper and place it underneath the drain, as well as the engine as a hole. It is important to remember that you will need to remove the oil filter as well as this could result in a spill. Once you have laid the old paper, get the container that you have designated for the old oil and place it under the drain.

5. Now, finish removing the drain plug and allow the oil to drain into the container. While this will only take a few minutes, you can move on to the next step to save yourself some time.

6. Now it is time to take your wrench that is designed to remove the oil filter and remove the old unit that is on your vehicle. You should make sure it is set up to turn in a counter-clockwise motion. Be very careful as oil will be inside of this container. Be sure to remove it so that the oil does not pour out. Once doing this, empty the contents into the drain pan.

7. Once the vehicle has been draining oil for approximately one to two hours, you are ready to put the new oil filter on. You should coat the gasket area with some clean oil and the inside of the area with some oil. Once doing this, you can thread the new filter and ensure it is put on properly.

8. Prior to placing the drain plug back on your vehicle, you should determine if a new washer is necessary. Typically, it is a good idea to use a new one so that the oil does not leak. Once the washer is replaced, you may reattach the drain plug.

9. Now, you may place the new oil into the vehicle.

10. Once the oil has been placed in the vehicle, remove the tire barriers and pull the vehicle off of the ramps. You should allow the vehicle to run for at least five minutes to ensure that there is no leakage.

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Time for Spring Vehicle Maintenance

January 21st, 2012 Comments off

Its that time of year again, spring. Your vehicle is ready to be treated well after a long, hard winter and you will need to make sure that a full spring maintenance is done to keep your car or truck in perfect operating order. Lets take a look at some of the most important factors in the spring maintenance.

Exterior Spring Maintenance

Wiper blades. These are an important part of vehicle maintenance. Youll want to replace old blades or clean newer ones that have gone through the rigors of winter. Wiper blades should be replaced every six months anyway, so doing it during your spring clean up is perfect timing.

Washing. The salt that is used to melt ice on roads can be very damaging to your car, so now that spring is here, give it a thorough washing from top to bottom. Make sure you rinse the undercarriage as well, since this is where a lot of rust happens without you noticing.

Waxing. This is the perfect time to wax your vehicle so it will last for a while and be easier to clean next time. You should also repair any chips in the paint at this time.

Tires. Check your tire pressure and top up if needed. Keeping your tires at optimum pressure will save you hundreds of dollars in gas and tire wear, so this should be a regular thing, not just for spring maintenance.

Engine Maintenance

Oil. You should change your oil every 3 to 4 months, so an easy way to remember that is to simply change with the change of seasons. Your spring vehicle maintenance is the ideal time to do this.

Tune up. Get a tune up now, to make sure that your vehicle is in great condition for summer driving, when most longer trips are taken. This will allow you to travel safely to weddings or on vacation.

Fluid levels. A quick check of all fluid levels is a good idea at this point, too. Make sure everything is topped up so your engine will be running at top efficiency and you wont have to deal with problems in this area later on.

Other Vehicle Maintenance

Interior. Now that the weather is warmer, youll be able to get out the vacuum and get rid of the clutter and garbage that built up over the winter! Clean out your cars interior and vacuum for a nicer driving atmosphere.

Brakes. A break check should be done every spring to ensure that they are in perfect working order. You may not even realize that your brakes aren’t working properly, since we tend to get used to them as time goes on. This can end up being very dangerous, so get them checked before you head into spring.

Other systems. Your spring maintenance checkup is a good time to review all other areas of your vehicle, replace broken lights and repair any other problems that you have been leaving until warmer weather.

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